NOTES TO MYSELF

Interior Paint Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel SATIN-- Ibis White (SW 7000) Jib track is 1 1/4". Schaefer 70-75 mid-rail cleat Premium Ropes--Cruiuser XTS 12mm halyard and hopefully jib sheets Perkins 4-108 Low Line FRESH WATER COOLING SYSTEM--notes Heat Exchanger Perkins P/N NA001406 $400 from TAD Pencil zinc anode for Heat Exchanger: E-1 Anode Pencil 1/2 x 2" 11/16" head--1/2" needs to cut off the anode prior to installation in the heat exchanger NOTE: I purchased a new (used) coolant reservoir in 2009 (it's in the dock box), so if (more likely when) the original one finally breaks there is a replacement available for it. RAW WATER SYSTEM SHERWOOD G65 RAW WATER PUMP (replaced March 2009) (rebuilt [British Marine] April 2014) RAW WATER PUMP IMPELLER BLADE DEFLECTION Note that the pump is installed "upside down" and the INTAKE is on the STARBOARD SIDE of the pump. Rotation is as noted (clockwise if upsidedown, counterclockwise if right side up... :<). March 2009: The pump pictured was installed in 2001. I had to drill the screws out of the cover to open the pump (cobalt drill bit $12), but the impeller was just fine. (Yes, I tried the "propane torch" method to loosen the screws, but to no avail.) Compared to its replacement unit, however, this pump is very hard to rotate so I think the bearings must be worn. CLOSE THE ENGINE WATER COOLING SEACOCK IMPELLER REMOVAL: DO NOT USE A SCREWDRIVER, PLIERS, OR ANY OTHER TOOL THAT MIGHT DAMAGE THE INTERIOR PUMP BODY. Lever between the blades from the sides using the Quick Impeller Remover (red plastic thing) provided with the SpeedSeal kit or an impeller puller. If you can't get the impeller out, call a mechanic who has a small impeller puller or remove the pump and take it to a machine shop. The bottom TWO studs come out with the nuts, so be careful. If you are replacing the pump, make sure that the SPLINE lines up with the groove on the pump. Flexible Impeller: 1-1/4" Wide x 2-7/16" Diameter. Sherwood 9959K minor repair kit. REPLACING THE IMPELLER: use a plastic wire tie to compress the blades with blades deflected correctly. Grease impeller with LITHIUM GREASE and push into the pump cavity making sure to line up the spline with the "key" on the shaft. REPLACEMENT OF THE "O" RING: lightly grease the groove in the SpeedSeal cover and install a new "o" ring. The OUTLET pipe (port side of the pump) has two hoses--one is CURVED and that side attaches to the pump itself. The other side has a straight hose and that attaches to the heat exchanger. RAW WATER SYSTEM--GROCO ARG-750 RAW WATER STRAINER After taking the whole thing apart many times over the past 12 years in order to clean or replace the strainer screen, we found that all that needs to be done is that the top cover is to be unscrewed and the old screen lifted out and a new one inserted. Of course, the top of our raw water strainer was WELDED onto the body (and Groco, in their infinite wisdom, had made an "engineering change" that required the purchase of a new CAP and new 0-rings). So anyway, the way that you replace the strainer screen is pretty simple: Film at 11:00PM here (opens separate tab). FUEL SYSTEM INSTALLATION & REMOVAL OF NAPA 3361 SECONDARY FUEL FILTER: REMOVAL: unscrew it CLOCKWISE from the CAV HEAD. INSTALLATION: screw the filter on COUNTER CLOCKWISE to orientation of the CAV HEAD VIDEO HELP =======>>>>> BLEEDING THE FUEL SYSTEM (written in clear English) Word Document Turn on the IGNITION SWITCH. Engage the electric fuel pump. Using a 5/8" wrench, loosen the bolt on the top of the SECONDARY filter (the one attached to the engine block). Operate the lift pump until fuel, free of bubbles, eminates from there. Tighten that bolt. Then, using a 5/16" wrench, loosen the SIDE BLEED VALVE on the fuel injection pump (only the side one--even though the book says to bleed the top one LEAVE THAT ONE ALONE!); use a 1/2" wrench to loosen the SUPPLY LINE (rear) to the injection pump. Operate the lift pump until fuel, free of bubbles, eminates from both of those. Tighten both. OPTIONALLY: Ensure the STOP CABLE is in the RUN POSITION. Position throttle at FULL then loosen #1 and #3 injector lines at the injectors and crank the engine (about 10 seconds--then wait 1 minute) and repeat until fuel flows from those lines. Tighten the injection lines to the injectors. MAKE SURE BOTH THE STARTING BATTERY AND THE IGNITION ARE ON!!! AND then move throttle to just above idle, and start the engine. NOTE: MOST TIMES, if you get clear fuel from the side bleed valve on the injection pump, the engine will start after the third or fourth try (a trick I learned from the injection pump rebuild shop...). Note about lift pump: the supply line to the lift pump has a check valve in it. So if you take that off, make sure you get it back on the same way it came off or you will NOT GET FUEL OUT OF THE LIFT PUMP (ask me how I know). JANUARY-JUNE 2008: Had the injection pump rebuilt by a local shop at a cost of $1300. Took six weeks (apparently they had to order a part from England and it was delivered by row boat). When installed, no fuel came out of the pump. After THREE MONTHS of f@#ing around with it, an email from Dave Lively in Louisana suggested that perhaps the shop REVERSED THE STOP AND RUN POSITION of the fuel shutoff--he was right. Just for S's and G's, we replaced the lift pump and rest of the fuel delivery system as well. NOVEMBER 2007: As a result of the (2007) top-end rebuild and the refresh of the engine cooling system (cost $1564.00), engine operating temperature has dropped from 190°F to 180°F under load at about 1800rpm. Instrument Cluster Remember that the tach works off of the ALTERNATOR, so in order to get an idea of RPMs, the REGULATOR DISCONNECT switch must be switched on. The "AMP" meter has never worked, and the knot meter mounted on the port cockpit wall stopped working after 5500 miles (but it outlasted the Raymarine knot meter by 2000 miles). The IGNITION switch must be energized for the instrument lights to work. PSS Shaft Seal When a boat with a watertight (P.S.S.) seal goes back in the water, there will be an air pocket trapped in the shaft log (stern tube). This air pocket must be vented so water can reach the face of the seal to help cool and lubricate it. To vent the air pocket, simply compress the bellow (push the carbon away from the stainless steel rotor with your hand) so that water fills the shaft log (stern tube). A small amount of water will enter the boat at this time and will stop as soon as you release the bellow, allowing the two faces to come back in contact. In the graphic below, one would move the bellow from the #5 in the direction of the #2. Water will seep into the boat. When you see the water, the air pocket is vented. January 2008: after sitting for about 4 weeks, the graphite flange somehow became attached to the stainless steel rotor, the result being near disastrous. When the engine was started and reverse was engaged, the bellow twisted itself out of the clamps and ended up folded in half. Water was then entering through the stern tube as there was no seal. Further investigation revealed that the boat yard that installed the seal had replaced a nylon fitting with one made of stainless steel (the manufacturer specifically warns against such replacement), and a resulting corrosion caused the two surfaces to bond. Faced with the probability that the boat would have to be towed to a boatyard to be hauled, I reluctantly sprayed Corrosion-X on the rotor and flange. Three days later, the corrosion bond broke and the bellow retracts again. Unfortunately, the Corrosion-X will decay the rubber parts of the seal, so the seal will have to be replaced. For reference: shaft size is 1”, stern tube is 2x2”. The cutless bearing was replaced in December 2012. Starting the engine Possible reasonss for the engine failing to start*: Remove start switch relay failure or wires disconnected/loose/corroded connections (it's pretty particular about how tight the wires are) Bad (remote) starting switch or wiring thereto Flat starting battery Starter (or starter solenoid) failure Insufficient fuel supply Air in the fuel line(s) * out of 997 attempts over 12 years, the engine failed to start only one time--probably due to air in the secondary fuel filter (corrected with the installation of the DP-1000 adapter) breaking the bleed. Remote start switch relay Type: Sierra 18-5815D Replacement part for Mercury/Mariner Outboard and Mercruiser Inboard/Outboard This solenoid is mounted on the aft port side of the engine. This is the way it is wired. Wiring Diagram: If the STARTER BUTTON or PROTECTION SOLENOID FAILS and you need to start the engine in an emergency, SHORT THE TWO PRONGS ON THE STARTER SOLENOID. Refer to the image below (not the starter solenoid on the boat) and note that the TOP PRONG on the starter solenoid has TWO RED CABLES attached to it (covered with a red hat) and the lower prong has ONE RED CABLE attached to it. Put a large screwdriver on BOTH PRONGS (THERE WILL BE A BIG ELECTRICAL SPARK) and the starter will operate. When the engine starts, REMOVE THE SCREWDRIVER. Galley Notes Hillerange 2174 General Maintenance Instructions To remove the range top, first remove the machine screws that hold the DRIP PANS. Then, find the small levers at each front edge of the range top (where the red line in the picture above ends) and push them towards each other. The range top will come loose from the front and then it can be removed from the hinge fittings at the back. To replace the Piezo Electric switch: Remove the range top. CAREFULLY remove the two wires from the switch (note: each wire has a different fitting so it is unimportant to remember where they go—they will only fit one way on the new switch). Remove the retaining nut from the back of the existing switch. From the range front, unscrew the existing switch and replace with new switch. Affix the retaining nut. Attach the two wires. Replace the range top.